You should now have two loops, one above the other. - Forming a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. This is a great knot for attaching climbers in the middle of a rope during mountain climbing, mountaineering, and glacier travel. To provide a second loop near the end of the rope for two-point anchors. To Tie an Alpine Butterfly Loop: Wrap three turns around the non-tying hand. The alpine butterfly knot is used for: - Equalizing a two-bolt belay. This knot can also be used to take the load off of a worn or damaged section of rope. To join two ropes. However, for rock climbing the alpine butterfly knot is also great for isolating a bad section of rope and using the rope for the anchor. Pioneering Uses. In addition to showing how to tie the Alpine Butterfly, Bryan offers a look at how it will uniquely fit into our ongoing . THE ALPINE BUTTERFLY KNOT, also known simply as the Butterfly Knot due to theform it takes while tying, forms a secure loop in the middle of a rope. When climbing a rope, you can tie a series of butterfly knots to form loops for your hands and feet. Similarly, for climbers traveling with three climbers to a rope, this knot can be used to secure the middle climber. - Isolating a damaged section of rope. Remarks The Alpine Butterfly bend is a non jamming knot that means it's relatively easy to untie after being loaded. Continue around and complete turn two back near your thumb. Alpine Butterfly Loop (ABOK #331, #532, #1053): You can also use this to form a secure loop in the middle of the knot. The tied rope can handle significant amounts of weight on the loop and the ends. Alpine Butterfly bend FAQ Alpine Butterfly Bend The observation that the butterfly loop is secure enough to isolate a worn or damaged section of rope within the loop indicated that the bend form of the knot would be similarly secure. Like most knots, the alpine butterfly loop is not without its disadvantages. Mountain climbers use the Alpine Butterfly for tying in the middle climber when traveling three to a rope. Step 1. The Alpine Butterfly bend is a bend that can be used to tie two ends of rope together. The butterfly loop, also known as the lineman's loop, butterfly knot, alpine butterfly knot, and lineman's rider, is a knot that is used to create a fixed loop in the center of a rope. Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes. It will accommodate a load in any of three directions independently or together. The butterfly knot is a versatile knot that climbers use to create attachment points and isolate damaged pieces of rope. For example, mountain climbers looking for a way of securing their carabiners to their climbing harnesses would use this knot. The most common uses of the Alpine Butterfly Loop Knot are found in rock climbing practices. Pull the resulting loop into shape and tighten . To provide a fixed loop to use with a toggle. It is the analogous bend form of the butterfly loop, in that it is the butterfly loop with the loop cut. This arrangement is called a pair of 'elbows' (after the two interlocking curves in the line): [2] The Alpine Butterfly is perfect for quickly creating a loop in a rope to use as a tie in point. Learn how to tie this knot, along with the pros and cons of using this loop. It's the Alpine Butterfly Knot, the same one you use to attach the suspension-point locker atop your haul bag to your haul line. Alternatives To A Figure 8 Loop Knot. Pick up the two turns near your fingertips and loosen them. The Alpine butterfly places a very strong loop in the middle of a line, perfect for the attachment of another rope, carabiner, etc. Set Speed using 1 - 5. Alpine Butterfly Loop Steps. Wrap it around the other two turns. It is also known as the Alpine butterfly knot and Lineman's loop. To join your fixed ropes using the Alpine Butterfly, first tie them together with a threaded Figure-of-8. Step 2 Twist the loop so it becomes two loops. The great part about this knot is that it can be tied "inline" without needing access to a working end on the rope or line. Complete turn four back near your thumb. Wrap the rope across your palm four times. A useful midline knot, the butterfly knot has its uses in glacier travel and rock climbing, where it is often used to tie the climber in the middle. To attach a pulley, ring, or other object part way along a rope. How To Tie an Alpine Butterfly Knot Step 1 Form a loop in the rope. Whether left or right-handed, lift up the turn closest to the thumb and replace it close to the finger tips. The Alpine Butterfly Knot is primarily used to create an attachment point to the middle of a climbing rope in alpine or glaciated terrain. Insert them up under the other two turns. Leave long enough tails so that you can secure the knot by threading the free ends back through the 8. It is very effective at spreading the load between the 2 ends and the middle loading point. Alpine Butterfly Loop Details Slide the knot off your hand and tighten by pulling on the loops and the ends. Do the same again but continue by drawing the bight through-back toward the wrist- beneath the other two turns. Butterfly loop The butterfly loop, also known as lineman's loop, butterfly knot, alpine butterfly knot, Swiss loop and lineman's rider, is a knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Wrap the rope around your hand twice. [1] Other uses include creating transverse lines, binding anchors, shortening rope slings and isolating damaged sections of rope. Make a bight in the middle of the line: Step 2. The Alpine butterfly knot enables you to easily form a secure loop in the middle of a rope, without having to touch either end. There are several ways to tie this knot. Twist the bight once to form a loop: Step 3. This provides a clip-in point which can be loaded in 2 or 3 directions. The butterfly bend is a knot used to join the ends of two ropes together. Uses of the Alpine Butterfly There are many and some common uses are: To create a mid-rope attachment loop (or two). Position turns two and three near your fingertips. However, it is a more difficult knot to learn and can be difficult to . Slide the knot off your hand and tighten by pulling on the loop and the ends. The Alpine Butterfly Knot (the Alpine Butterfly loop and Alpine Butterfly bend) is one of the most useful knots to know for arborist, camping, climbing, hiki. When using a rope to pull a heavy object (such as a log), tie a series of butterfly knots to form loops for each person's hand or shoulder. Counted among the most secure knots, it can be done in just three steps, as instructed below: It is also used in climbing for traverse lines, anchoring, shortening rope slings, and isolating broken rope sections. Twist this loop again in the same direction to form a second loop. It is also easier to untie. When tied incorrectly, the Alpine Butterfly bend can be insecure! Pick up the turn near your fingertips. Jun 16, 2017 43 Dislike Share Save Alpine Ascents 1.22K subscribers Here we quickly demonstrate how to tie, and then use, the Alpine Butterfly Knot for clipping into the center of a rope in. First, with your palm facing up, loop the line three times round your palm making sure a "x" is formed at the back (pic 1) Use the line closest to your fingertips to go over and under the first two loops (pic 2 & 3) Let the line slide off your palm and continuing pulling till the alpine butterfly is formed (pic 4 & 5) How To Tie Alpine Butterfly You will also learn where the Alpine Butterfly Knot is not a good choice compared to some other fixed loop knots for the middle of a rope that you can use. For instance, the butterfly loop can be difficult to tie around a solid ring or similar object, and improper tying, or "false butterfly," can result in a knot that looks like a butterfly knot but does not hold the same benefits and could ultimately be unsafe to use. At the end of turn one, position the rope close to your fingertips. To isolate a damaged section of rope.

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